1) Wildflower

Good times blossom naturally at Wildflower, Como the Treasury’s top-floor restaurant, decorated with flower motifs and hits of vivid green. Chef Jed Gerrard gives indigenous ingredients a star turn on his accomplished menu, developed in accordance with the six Aboriginal seasons: Birak, Bunuru, Djeran, Makuru, Djilba and Kambarang. Go on a culinary safari (without leaving your seat) and try smoked kangaroo, marron with saltbush and native lime, or Shark Bay saucer scallops with sesame cream, fennel and apple. Post is the hotel’s more casual ground-floor eatery, serving bistro food with a distinctly Australian spin – cured hiramasa kingfish, for example.

2) Long Chim

David Thompson proved he can ace Thai fine dining at Nahm; get a flavour for his more casual side at Long Chim in the State Buildings, which serves Thai street food in a fun, informal setting. The eclectic menu canters from small plates to noodles to curries to salads and so on. If you’re a fan of heat, try the chilli-packed chicken larb; there’s also a gingery mashed prawn curry and a moreish laksa. The $45 set menu keeps things affordable.

3) Firewater on the Grill

The Duxton Hotel is the setting for the stylish steakhouse Firewater on the Grill, which sprawls across the lobby level and also boasts a retro-tastic cocktail bar. As the name suggests, the grill takes a starring role: treats to try include grilled garlic bread and Turkish bread, grilled chorizo, grilled salmon, grilled sirloin and so on. Perhaps surprisingly, given all the alpha grill action, Firewater also serves a dainty high tea, whose highlights include parmesan arancini, buttermilk scones with strawberry jam and double cream, marble cake and macarons.

4) Petition Kitchen

Canter through seasonal shared plates at Petition Kitchen (housed in the handsome, historic State Buildings), which sensibly champions the region’s bounty. Come for breakfast, have a long and leisurely lunch (soaking up the Barrack Street’s sunshine that pours through the west-facing windows) or indulge in a special dinner. Menu highlights include Fremantle octopus served with Pernod aioli, fried artichokes with ‘peaoli’, salted ricotta and chervil, and sweet-spiced pork collar served with salted cucumber, chilli and cashew. The dining room is a good-looking space – if we liked the phrase ‘industrial-chic’, we’d apply it here.

5) Friends Restaurant

Friendly name, friendly service – Friends Restaurant is on a mission to make modern Australian fine dining more approachable. Friends’ French chef has a wealth of classical cooking experience up his chef’s whites, having worked in Michelin-starred kitchens across the globe. The feel is fancy, even if the vibe is relaxed: chairs are hand-carved, glasses are hand-polished, tables are set with immaculate linen and the restaurant surveys the majestic Swan River. The menu doesn’t take itself too seriously, though: salmon gravlax comes with black truffle, beetroot, lemon and fennel, compressed apple and gin and tonic foam; apple crumble is paired with Manjimup black-truffle ice-cream. Lip-smackingly good.

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